Friday, 30 December 2011

Luxor

So here I write to you all from Luxor, south of Cairo, where many an ancient Egyptian has roamed. I finally have a bit of time to myself to type up all my adventures from the last three days. It's pretty much a diary for myself, so I remember what I have done out here, but if you enjoy it, all the better!

Let's start, as you do, with Day 1:
We woke up at some stupid hour (ahem 8am, ahem ahem) to catch a one-hour flight from Cairo Airport to Luxor Airport. Despite the plane ride being so short, we still got served refreshments; juices in all tropical flavours were suddenly brought out to us on your standard airplane trolley, and the amount of time it took them to serve us was the amount of time we were airborne, really. We took off, got drinks served to us 20 minutes later, took one sip, and we were told to put our seat-belts on again ready for landing. I must sound pretty simple, but I've never taken a domestic flight before.

Once we landed, a nice man in a huge van was there to greet us and take us to our 4 * hotel situated on a tiny island in the middle of the Nile river - so. amazing. The sun was shining...properly shining, not London sun shine. And it was hot! 23 degrees celcius on the 27th of December is not something I have ever experienced before. I am constantly forgetting it's winter in Egypt!




All the rooms are the corner sections in little hexagonal bungalows, with the bathroom in the corner. Such a strange idea, but it works. We asked the nice girl at the Reception desk (who randomly pointed out that she is exactly the same age as me, despite looking much older. It must have been the uniform) to book us a cab from the hotel to downtown Luxor, so we could visit the museum and the Karnak (the biggest religious building in the world, according to father, but I am yet to find out whether this is true or not), however we were unsuccessful in getting to either place on time before they closed. So, instead, we got back into the cab and ventured to see Luxor Temple by night. Some girl came up to us offering an illegal guided tour, which my incredibly un-streetwise mother decided would be a great idea. So for 50L.E. (Egyptian Pounds, equivalent to £5) we got the most ridiculously crap guided tour around the temple, full of non-existent objects being pointed out, a lot of her shouting "come on!" at us trying to rush us, and some unbelievably fictitious and misguided 'facts' on the temple.

Advice: If you want a guide, don't get one from anyone who whispers that she speaks english and had identification in your ear. They are, most probably, not to be trusted.  

Anyway, she finally decided to get lost, and the padres and I were left to visit the temple on our own accord. This Temple is home to the Obelisk whose twin is in Paris' Place de la Concorde, and, if I'm to be completely honest, is pretty impressive, despite the building's small size. We were then picked up and dropped back to our hotel in the cab - for a whole days chaffeur we paid 65L.E. (£6.50!)






A hearty meal was called for in the evening, which was lucky as there was a massive buffet of multi ethnic food proudly displayed in the hotel's main restaurant - the many smells and colours made me even hungrier, leading to me, what is known in england as, massively stuffing my face. Feeling mightily ill, I retired to bed.

Day 2 was particularly exciting: a driver picked us up from our hotel at 9 frickin' 30, with a lovely guide sitting in the front seat, and whisked us off to some of the most impressive places that had come out of the work of the Ancient Egyptians. First stop was the Colossi of Memnon - two huge statues which used to sit in front a temple, but the temple was destroyed due to poor foundations. I found this quite surprising considering the Ancient Egyptians wern't half bad at making buildings last - have you seen the pyramids?



Our second stop was the Ramessum: a temple that King Ramesis II built in honour of himself. Slightly arrogant. But we enjoyed it. There was a huge 20 metre statue of himself, but in an earthquake, like, 2,000 years ago, it was destroyed.



We then proceeded to the Hatchepsut Temple which was beyond majestic. Our guide knew every little corner of the temple and explained what all of the hieroglyphics meant.



Fun Fact of the Day: On many of the ceilings in buildings of the time of the Ancient Egyptians, they painted the sky blue, with stars all over it. These stars were actually star fish, as they believed that, as the sky was blue, it was actually made of water, like the sea.


Next stop was the Valley of the Kings - very nice! We saw the tomb of Ramesis I, Ramesis IV and Ramesis IX - they liked their Ramesis in ancient times! I really recommend anyone to go there; words can't describe the amount of stories, and history and beauty and everything of these tombs well enough to manage to properly sell them to anyone. You'll just have to go and see it all for yourself! And get a guide! (Ours was amazing, so if needed, I can pass anyone her e-mail address!)

By 4 we were exhausted. Listening and taking in the history of ancient times is quite an effort, I must say! Also, even when you are inside a tomb, looking at the amazing hieroglyphs and images that have somehow lasted 3,500 years of life, there will still be people pestering you to buy their crappy pieces of Tutankhamun-shaped bits of rock, or postcards. Always. And they're quite to the point: "I want more money!" and "I am not rich enough" are common phrases to be overheard when out 'shopping'.

We had an early dinner, due to having no lunch, in the hotel's more posh restaurant. Because the conversion rate is approximately 10 to 1, nothing is really very expensive, so we took advantage. Lobster, smoked salmon and paté were coming out of our ears by the end of the night. After we all dipped into to some of dad's Basil and Ginger Creme Brulée (très posh, i know) we decided bed was calling.




An hours more work, a few hundred more words, and 20 solid minutes of dad snoring later, I decided enough was enough. Time to see what tomorrow would bring!

What tomorrow (now known to us as yesterday) brought, was a two hour visit to the Karnak Temple. It is massive, this place. We thought we would be there for an hour, tops. Anyway it totally tired us out, but the madre insisted that a trip to the city museum was not only necessary, but compulsory.

Joke of the Day (Or, the only joke I've ever been told by an Egyptian): When a man from German buys a car, they check the engine. When a man from Japan buys a car, he checks the technology. When a man from England buys a car, he checks the style. When an Egyptian man buys a car, he checks the horn.

MASSIVE. LOL. Ahem. To explain, the absolute joker's point was to draw attention to the way the people of Egypt drive. No matter how many or how few cars there are in front of them, they will beep, and beep, and beep. And beep. That's a lot of unnecessary beeping!

After the pretty interesting city museum, filled with Mummys and old tools and statues, we headed back to the hotel for an afternoon of rest. What we were to do on our third evening was much better than I could have imagined. We returned back to the Karnak Temple at about 6.30pm, when it was dark, for the so-called Sound and Lights 'Spectaculars', meaning 'show'. I was wearing pretty much every layer I could think of, cos mother dearest told me it was going to be cold. It wasn't. Although it started raining a bit, which was a bit bizarre. We all gathered at the first pylons, or more commonly know to us as, the entrance of the temple, and waited until all the lights and voice recording were turned on, beginning our tour through the temple by night. Out of nowhere came the eerily old fashioned voice of Judy Dench and some other middle aged, terribly terribly, english actor whose name I'm sure my parents knew. Images of pharaohs and queens lit up against the temple walls as the story of the temple was told, using the most incredibly amount of cliches I have ever heard in a one hour tour. "THE BEGINNING IS BEYOND!" it was the most dramatic outdoor, starlit bedtime story I had ever experienced, personally.




And then I get to now. I am still in bed writing this all for you while my parents are out sipping guava juice by the palm trees. (I wish I was joking) The things I do for you all! We are off back to Cairo today for a split second, and then we are being picked up by a friend to go to their house in the desert for New Year. I'm surprised I have got any work done at all while being here considering how much has been going on!  Anyway I'll speak to you all in the New Year as, in the desert, I really doubt wifi exists.

For now I gotta rush! Tata for now, lovelies! x

Tuesday, 27 December 2011

Elizabeth Grant, a.k.a. Lana del Rey

I'm incredibly late in discovering Lana Del Rey, but my god is she beautiful. She looks she like she was born about 30 years too late, but it suits her so well. Weirdly enough, she looks better when she's not smiling; the whole sexy smoldering look suits her much more than the sweet smiley look. She kind of reminds me of that woman who featured in the Audio Bully's song "Shot you down" a while back. (I know she sang the original too, but I had never seen her until that video) - Is her name Nancy Sinatra? She even reminds me a bit of a photo my dad has of my mum, from the 70's or early 80's.

Lana del Rey
Lana del Rey
Lana del Rey
Her song Born to Die - my gosh! It's so deep, and her voice is so powerful and intense. It has quite a strange effect on me actually - there is something slightly depressing about it, but, at the same time, it is almost uplifting. The video is also incredible: I mean, any video which starts off with someone as stunning as her, with dark red lipstick on, sitting in a throne, with two fierce tigers on either side of them, has got to be pretty darn exceptional.



Having done a bit of research on the star, it's odd that even she describes herself to be a bit like Nancy Sinatra. She says "Think Nancy Sinatra singing a Cat Power song over Lil Wayne's track." Not quite hearing Lil Wayne in here though... I'd say there was something more Portishead-y in this song.

Monday, 26 December 2011

Egypt Adventures - Week 1

So, as I'm sure I've mentioned a million times before, this is my first time in Cairo (the homeland) for 6 years, the time in which I have not seen my brother, and during which my little niece Biba was born. The brother is healthy, as is the niece :) Always good news!

Practically everyone gave me funny looks when I said I was going to be spending Christmas in Cairo. "What about the Revolution?" "Aren't you scared?" Let me explain - the revolution isn't happening all over Cairo. It's happening in this little place called Tahrir Square, don't know if you've heard of it. Also in a few places beyond, but not very near where my brother lives, and where we're staying. So, basically, it's all good. My sister-in-law has become a real revolutionary, but we're not to talk about it too much. (Her dad doesn't approve because he's scared she's going to get injured - Bless him!)

Anyway, away from politics and family for a bit - my gosh, life in Cairo is totally different to life anywhere else I have been around the world. It's, without sounding too cliche, a totally different world. There are no rules here, especially when it comes to road safety: you wanna drive 90mph on the 'autostrad'? You wanna erase all the white lines off of the roads, so the only thing you have in common with the other drivers on your side of the road is the direction you are driving in? You wanna be a taxi driver who refuses to give up smoking, so smokes on the job despite any passengers potential dislikes? Go for it my friend. Cairo is the place for you!

A taxi
Casually driving by the pyramids
Our first day in the land of the pyramids took us to to the Khan el-Khalili, the enormous market in the Islamic area of Cairo. This place is incredible. I can tell you Camden, Portobello and Spitalfields don't quite compare to this experience. People popping out from crevices in the wall, practically begging you to come into their little 'shop' to buy all the dodgy 'bits found around the pyramids', by saying "Want to spend some more money?" It's great. I just wish they would realize that the vintages cameras, mummy beads, canopic jars and ushabtis they are selling are not from ancient times, they are just dusty.

The market by night
Guy in the market, hand carving copper trays




















My dad had the great experience of haggling with one of the shop owners for two ushabtis, and the conversation according to father went a bit like this:
Shop Owner: "Oh yes, they very very very old." 
Father: "No these are from the 1950's". 
Shop owner looks rather cross and replies: "No, no, very much old. From the 1930's."
Moral: Don't bother arguing with Egyptians. You will be wasting your breath.

We stopped off for some lunch in a doorway. Literally, this random wooden door in the middle of the old market wall. But once you squeeze yourself through it, the restaurant beyond is huge. (Well, considering it was just a door in the wall). Mum took charge and ordered us some yummy Egyptian things and then we were off, back into the magical world of the market.









Mum spent about 2 hours talking to some guy in a bead shop (my mum is a jewellery designer), rummaging through box after box, strand after strand, colour after colour of beads beads beads. It was a night mare, but I took this pretty photo :)



The second and third day brought an enormous lack of sleep, mixed with having to speedily write 3,000 words on my French Revolution essay for Art History (that I'm also sure I have mentioned a bazillion times). Really very little happened, apart from, somehow, through the magic of the scarabs, I managed to write 2,000 words up in the space of 8 hours. Please, do not ask me how, but it felt rather nice.

I then treated myself to a relaxing mani-pedi on the fourth day, which was Christmas Eve. I can safely say, Christmas does not feel like Christmas when only a few people put up decorations, and when it is 20 degrees outside and the sky is a blue as...the sky. What reminded me that we were actually in December,, about to go into January, was the guy dressed up as a caricature-like Santa Claus, standing on the side of the motorway, waving at every taxi that went by. It was like I suddenly knew what it felt like to be a cartoon. But back to the mani-pedi - Egyptians really know how to do beauty. You wouldn't imagine that seeing as so many women in the street have their hair, as well as most of their body, covered.



Friends was playing on the flat screen in the beauty parlour (see! - Egypt isn't so far behind!), which was nice. Especially when the woman fiddling with my finger- and toe-nails kept disappearing to attend to another client, despite me having told her I could only be there for an hour maximum because we had to be at my mum's friend's house for lunch. (There's another thing about Egypt - Lunchtime is at 4 or 5 in the afternoon.)

We then went into the 'countryside' for some nommy noms with one of mum's oldest friends, from the time she lived in Cairo (that's a whole other story though), in her amazing, lavish villa.

An Egyptian Garden
One of her many living room areas
Lunch was great, but dessert was Scrummy, with a capital S! It was basically an Egyptian bread and butter pudding, made with mozarella (of all things!), cream and, as it's name suggests, bread. It was served with this clear liquidly, syrupy goodness, which smelled like a bottle of floral scented perfume. We later found out it was orange blossom syrup, and were so impressed my mum's friend gave us the bottle. That's what I love about Egypt - the people are so generous. For friends (or people they want something from in return) what is theirs, is yours!

Fresh Lime juice
Egyptian Bread-and-butter pudding




















Sunday brought the day that I have dedicated 25 blog posts to, in my Countdown to Christmas! I spent some of the morning attempting to write the introduction to the second essay I have due in for January on 18th century British Architecture. (How I despise my course when it makes me work on Christmas Day!) We then all sat down for scrambled eggs and smoked salmon (that the mother insisted we bought 3 for 2 in Waitrose before we left for Cairo), which was lovely! This was then followed by a bit of present-opening time (I got some revolutionary gifts - no pun intended - from the pro-rev sister-in-law) and a trip to the local coffee bar for a fresh glass of kiwi juice, and then a quick nap.





















Dinner was amazing, and was interrupted half-way through by the total inconvenience of present opening time! My mum had bought my brother and my sister-in-law an iPad for both of them to use. She had organized (after 9 or 10 hours of one-to-one sessions at the Apple Store) that once they open it up, a slide-show of my nieces first year of life appears on the screen, playing to a really beautiful Van Morrison song, which had everyone in tears as we watched it. It was so sweet of her. We continued opening presents, as you do at Christmas, and then had the rest of our meal: a typical english Christmas dinner, all with Egyptian produce!







And then i get to Monday - today! I am sitting here, trying very hard to do work, but trying even harder to avoid it. Blogger and Facebook are much more interesting, and we all know it! 

We are off to Luxor tomorrow, on a plane (sigh) to see some of, according to my mother, the most stunning places in the world, and to stay in a nice hotel (yay) :) I'll save the details for another post, sometime soon, but for now, happy Boxing Day, and enjoy the Sales! 

With LOVE from Cairo X

Sunday, 25 December 2011

MERRY CHRISTMAS

Alas, my Countdown to Christmas has come to an end. It shall be missed - it brought me great joy writing something every single day for y'all to read and, maybe even, enjoy?

However, it is Christmas day, and at Christmas you tell the truth. To me, you [all] are perfect...I think I'm getting sidetracked here. Anyway here are some Christmas LOLs for you, cos nothing beats a good old chuckle.




With LOVE from Cairo X

Saturday, 24 December 2011

Countdown to Christmas: 1 day!

Tonight Santa will be flying all around the world delivering all the little kiddies and tiny tots their presents, using his shiny red Mini inflatable sleigh, like so:



Images sourced from The Cool Hunter

Modern technology is moving so fast these days, even Santa has caught on. I guess he couldn't rely on a bunch of reindeer for his whole life as Father Christmas though, right? I hear Rudolphs fallen off the wagon recently too, so there hasn't been a better time to upgrade his mode of transport.

Friday, 23 December 2011

Countdown to Christmas: 2 days

Christmas is the day after tomorrow!

A short post today, due to being incredibly busy in Cairo (I have to write 2 x 3,000 word essays while I am here and it is taking up all of my time, while also reserving a bit of time for the fam, of course!).

A few things I found, which made me smile.




Also, everyone who loves Christmas, loves the Christmas lights, music and decorations that come with it. So what happens if you combine them? You get this:


There are some better ones, but gotta stick to the Christmas theme and have one that has christmas music. Can't stand how dubstep has taken over the world - it's not that great ok? You don't have people obsessing over music anymore, unless you're under the age of 12, so chill! (Rant over)

Thursday, 22 December 2011

Christmas Countdown: 3 days

The artist of these ice sculpture isn't known to me, but what is is that they are damn cute. A mini London scene showing St Paul's Cathedral, the London Eye and the Gherkin amongst other well-known attractions of the city. Apparently, and it is obvious how, the artist is challenging the effects of global warming. It's just a real shame that all the artist's sweat and tears have gone in to creating the mini metropolis, only to melt away under the oh-so-scorching London sun.


Ice Ice London

Mini ice people sculptures
Mini ice people sculptures

The detail on these are amazing. The mini ice sculpture people were made in hundreds, and were placed sitting all along the steps of St Paul's Cathedral in London, for all to see and watch as they slowly melt away to create mini puddles. 

Wednesday, 21 December 2011

Christmas Countdown: 4 days

Sir Frederick David Attenoborough (or David Attenborough, to you and I), as I mentioned in a post long long ago before the essay-writing and exams took over my life, is one of my favourite people on TV and generally alive today. His recent series Frozen Planet was beyond extraordinary. From the photography of scenes most of us will never get to experience first-hand, to "that marvelous knowledgeable whisper". You know exactly what I mean, so don't pretend Attenborough's voice has never been on iPlayer as soothing background sounds when trying to fall asleep! Attenborough has been doing documentaries for 57 years, so it's no wonder he is considered a national treasure.

Here's a video I think, if you admire him as much as I do, will put a little smile on your face. Enjoy!
Even the title gives me goosebumps.


Such stunning footage, and you know he means every single word.

P.S. News on Cairo coming soon xx

Tuesday, 20 December 2011

Christmas Countdown: 5 days

So I wrote a song. It's about the trip I'm taking to Cairo today :)

Oh na na, 
Going to Egypt.


Oh na na,
Going to Egypt.
Cairo specifically,
I cannot wait.


Hey, Cairo,
I really want to get to you
But we have to wait,
4 hours or more.
We took a stupid
Connection flight
Now we gotta wait
'Til it's night.


Urrrrgggh. Urrrgggh.


Oh na na,
Hurry up.


Oh na na.
I wanna see my brother,
For the first time,
In 6 years.


You so amazing
You got some pyramids and a sphinx.
I cannot wait to
Meet my niece, I hear she is a minx.
I'll ride a camel,
And take some trip into the deser-e-e-er-e-e-er-e-e-ert


Oh na na,
Cairo time.


Oh na na,
Cairo time.
It is time.
To go to Cairo.

Monday, 19 December 2011

Countdown to Christmas: 6 days

How to make delicious Mulled Wine:

Last night, for the first time, I made Mulled Wine. It's incredibly easy, purely because you can put as much of whatever you want in it - there's no strict recipe. But here's the way I did it, and my gosh was it good. It may have something to do with the fact I used Fortnum & Mason's Mulled Wine spice sachets, so it tasted expensive. Any spice bags will do though.


Things you will need:

1L Red wine
Mulled Wine spice bags
1 Mug - preferably with your first name initials on it (Mine is from Anthropologie)
1 pot


Things you might want to add:
0.5L Orange juice
1 small glass of water
1 mini sieve
1 Cinnamon stick
1 Orange, thickly sliced
2 shots of brandy for extra oomph
2 teaspoons of sugar (brown or white)
5 cloves

And then you just throw it all into the pot and wait for it to boil.




Serve once it tastes good.




DELISH